28-Nights A Month in Central America: Beyond Tulum & Tikal - 18-to-Thirtysomethings

Antigua, Guatemala

Founded in 1543, Santiago de Guatemala (now known as La Antigua Guatemala, or simply Antigua) was the capital of Spain's Central American confederacy and the fourth most important city in the Americas (after Mexico City, Lima and Zacatecas) in the 1500s.

Antigua was devastated by an earthquake in 1773, which, combined with damage from earlier earthquakes, persuaded the government to relocate the capital to the site of present-day Guatemala City. That seeming misfortune turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

Isolation and longtime neglect served Antigua well. More than two centuries of underdevelopment left the town with a treasure trove of dilapidated but historical structures, many of which have been rehabilitated into chic restaurants, shops and hotels.

Antigua can be seen on a day's excursion from Guatemala City, which is 28 mi/45 km to the east, but it deserves more time. Some visitors prefer to use this colonial gem as their base for touring the country (instead of the capital). It has a large English-speaking community, a wide range of accommodations, upscale and medium-priced restaurants, espresso bars, delicious baked goods, literally dozens of language schools, plenty of galleries, and for nightlife, jazz clubs and discos.

Antigua is also one of the best places to go in Guatemala if you want to learn to speak Spanish. About 75 schools in town offer intensive classes. But be sure to check ahead of time to know exactly what you'll get, as not all of these schools are on the up-and-up. Some courses include lodging with Guatemalan families.

Visitors also can study various arts and crafts (backstrap weaving, drawing, painting, ceramics, photography and so forth) at the Art Workshops in La Antigua Guatemala. It's not a fully Guatemalan experience, however, as a group of U.S. for-profit artists operates those workshops, not the Guatemalans themselves.

San Ignacio

The medium-sized settlement of San Ignacio, on the banks of the Macal River in Belize's hilly western region, is another culturally diverse Belizean town—with quick and easy access to superb natural and historical sites. Its wooden and concrete buildings are picturesque, set against the green of the hillside 70 mi/110 km west of Belize City.

Surprisingly, the area has few mosquitoes or other biting bugs, a pleasant change from much of the rest of Belize. San Ignacio (called "Cayo" by many locals, a name which also refers to the entire western region) has mostly budget lodging, but nearby is "cottage country," where some of Belize's best jungle lodges offer horseback riding, romantic settings, river rafting and nature hikes in the bush.

The town's market is an excellent place to buy authentic Belizean crafts and sample local cuisine from food stalls. Green Iguana Conservation project provides rehabilitation for injured iguanas while allowing visitors to interact with them.

From San Ignacio, excursions can be arranged to a number of destinations in the area: Actun Tunichil Muknal and Barton Creek caves, the Rain Forest Medicine Trail, Mountain Pine Ridge Forest Reserve, the Belize Botanic Gardens at duPlooy's Lodge, three butterfly farms (Green Hills, Tropical Wings and the Blue Morpho Breeding Center at Chaa Creek) and the archaeological ruins at Cahal Pech, Xunantunich, El Pilar and Caracol.

Just 10 mi/16 km from the border with Guatemala, San Ignacio can also serve as a base for a day trip to the ancient Maya city of Tikal in Guatemala. To book a trip, go to one of the many tour businesses on Burns Avenue or check with your hotel or lodge.

San Ignacio is connected to its sister town, Santa Elena, by the only suspension bridge in the country, Hawkesworth Bridge. Road connections to San Ignacio from other points in Belize are good, although the Western Highway from Belize City has one of the highest traffic accident rates in the country, especially after rains when some sections are as slick.

Caye Caulker

Bacalar

About 25 mi/40 km northwest of Chetumal is the town of Bacalar, home to Bacalar Lagoon (the second-largest lagoon in Mexico) and the Spanish-built Fort San Felipe (noted for its museum of weapons and military uniforms but not always open).

Bacalar is in the southeastern part of the Yucatan peninsula, a four-hour drive from the Cancun airport and a half-hour drive from the Chetumal airport.

Bacalar was named one of Mexico's Pueblos Magicos (magical towns) by the Secretary of Tourism. It is famed for its spectacular Laguna de Siete Colores (Lagoon of Seven Colors) and the historic Fort of San Felipe, dating from 1733, along with its Museum of Piracy. The lagoon, which is named for the many shades of blue in its crystalline waters, offers an array of watersports, including swimming, kayaking, waterskiing and pontoon boating.

Take time to visit the archaeological site of Dzibanche. During the classical Maya period, from AD 200 to 800, Dzibanche was a regional center so vast that it had 22 separate plazas; so far, only three have been excavated. Archaeologists postulate that priests walked some 1,800 mi/2,900 km from Teotihuacan, near Mexico City, to perform ceremonies at Building Six, a Teotihuacan-style stone base topped by a pyramid.

Dzibanche's Temple of the Cormorants has hollowed-out burial caves where lower-ranking nobles were interred. And inside the Temple of the Owl, archaeologists found a royal palace with gold from Oaxaca. Trading throughout the Maya area was extensive, and the temple itself is in the Peten architectural style, which is found as far away as Tikal in Guatemala.

About 40 mi/65 km west of Bacalar are the Maya ruins of Kohunlich, which include a temple with giant stucco masks. This city was occupied from the sixth to the 12th or 13th century and was subsequently abandoned. The Temple of the Masks was built about 1,500 years ago.

Also nearby are two other impressive Maya ruins, Becan and Chicanna. Becan flourished from AD 600 to 900, and about 50,000-60,000 people lived there. The site is famous for a unique moat that surrounds it and a covered stone passageway with false arches.

San Cristobal de las Casas

Panajachel

There are plenty of hotels and restaurants in Panajachel, Guatemala, on the shores of Lake Atitlan, but this village is a tad run down, slightly overpriced and very touristy. (We think some of the pristine beauty of the lake was destroyed when the Hotel Barcelo del Lago built a wooden platform along the beach. It can turn into a noisy playground at times.)

Located 68 mi/109 km west of Guatemala City, Panajachel used to have a reputation as a haven for New Age seekers and pot-smoking global drifters; although that's still true to some extent, the demographic is a bit more varied now, as many wealthy U.S. citizens and Guatemalans have bought homes there. However, the market is a great place to pick up some handicrafts, especially if you can't make it to Chichicastenango for market day.

An especially good time to visit the town is the first week of October, when Panajachel honors its patron saint, St. Francis, with special festivities.

Santiago Atitlan is a great day trip, especially for the boat trip across the lake. The town is the home of the Tuztuil, who maintain their Maya religious practices and are renowned artisans. Just before Easter, they celebrate a god called Maximon, whose effigy is paraded through the streets, doused in rum and given a lit cigar and a fedora for his head. Maximon is said to represent the life force, and he's definitely the life of the party.

Jaibalito also makes a good day trip from Panajachel (it's a 20-minute boat ride). Kick back and spend a night at the beautiful La Casa del Mundo hotel. The restaurant, which is also open to nonguests (as are most hotel restaurants in the country), serves delicious food. The hotel grounds offer an excellent, safe opportunity for lake swimming.

Playa del Carmen

Tulum

The only major Mayan city built next to the sea, Tulum, Mexico, enjoys a spectacular setting, perched on a bluff above the Caribbean.

The city was still inhabited when the first Spaniards arrived, and it was said to be larger than Seville at that time. What remains today, however, is a rather small collection of buildings, at least when compared with such Mayan sites as Chichen Itza.

Unfortunately, Tulum has become a victim of its own success, and most of its buildings have been roped off to protect them from being damaged by large numbers of visitors. The best time to visit is early in the morning before the cruise-ship and tour-bus groups arrive—this way, you'll also avoid the hottest part of the day. Or take a snorkeling trip from a local tour company and see the ruins from the water instead.

In addition to the beach and ruins, downtown Tulum is a pleasant spot for a stroll. It has a little plaza with a church and a street full of restaurants, bars and shops. At night, some of the bars offer live music and a local ambience.

Palenque

On the outskirts of Palenque, located near the Mexico-Guatemala border approximately 300 mi/485 km southwest of Merida, lie some of the most impressive Mayan ruins in the country. Climb the tall Temple of the Inscriptions and then descend to the site of the impressive, restored crypt of the Mayan king Pakal. The crypt itself is closed off to visitors, but there's a replica at the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. Investigate other ruins to look at carvings and bas-reliefs.

We consider Palenque well worth a visit, but it is extremely hot and humid in the summer. To avoid the worst of it, get an early-morning start.

If you leave the park following the Otulum River down the hill, you will discover several excavated temples and get to many pretty waterfalls cascading into natural bathing pools, a great place to cool off after wandering around the ruins. Some pleasant hotels are found in the village, if you wish to overnight in the area.

If you have time, travel 60 mi/100 km south to the Agua Azul waterfalls. These turquoise cascades are some of Mexico's natural wonders (just try to ignore the tacky food huts dotting the lower end of the falls). You can swim there, but do so with care—several people have drowned.

Oaxaca

Mexico City

From the Alameda, a leafy center of activity since Aztec times, to the Zona Rosa, a chic shopping neighborhood, Mexico City offers endless options to urban adventurers.

Founded by the Aztecs as Tenochtitlán in 1325, Mexico City is both the oldest and the highest (7,349 ft) metropolis on the North American continent. And with nearly 24 million inhabitants, it is the most populous city in the world. It is Mexico's cultural, political, and financial core -- braving the 21st century but clinging to its deeply entrenched Aztec heritage.

You only need to stand in the center of the Plaza of Three Cultures to visually comprehend the undisputed significance of this city. Here, the remains of an Aztec pyramid, a colonial church, and a towering modern office building face one another, a testament to the city's prominence in ancient and contemporary history. Located at the heart of the Americas, Mexico City has been a center of life and commerce for more than 2,000 years. The Teotihuacán, Toltec, Aztec, and European conquistadors all contributed to the city's fascinating evolution, art, and heritage. Although residents refer to their city as simply México (meh-hee-koh), its multitude of ancient ruins, colonial masterpieces, and modern architecture has prompted others to call it "The City of Palaces."

The central downtown area resembles a European city, dominated by ornate buildings and broad boulevards, and interspersed with public art, parks, and gardens. This sprawling city is thoroughly modern and, in places, unsightly and chaotic, but it never strays far from its historical roots. In the center are the partially excavated ruins of the main Aztec temple; pyramids rise just beyond the city.