34-Nights Lima to Buenos Aires: Deserts & Dancing - 18-to-Thirtysomethings

Potosi

The 16th-century silver-mining town of Potosi claims to be the world's highest city (15,380 ft/4,690 m). It merits at least a 24-hour stay.

Visit the Casa Nacional de Moneda, or mint. Take a look at the jarring entryway carving of a grinning Bacchus—which must be seen to be believed. Take note of the way the mint itself was constructed—some of its beams, made of a hardwood called quebracha, were hand-carried from the Gran Chaco region, more than 250 mi/400 km away.

Allow time to walk the narrow, winding streets and look at the beautiful colonial buildings. You can take a bus trip to the San Ildefonso Lake (an artificial lake built for silver mining) or to one of the nearby mines. You can even try your luck at the once-fabulous Cerro Rico, the largest silver mine in the world—nearly the entire mountain was found to be pure silver—and responsible for much of colonial-era Spain's enormous wealth. But take note: The cooperative-run mines are squalid Dickensian nightmares—miners work in dank, muddy corridors filled with noxious gases. Wear your worst clothes for the trip and bring a small something for the workers who toil there.
Tours can be arranged from Potosi to the Uyuni salt pans. 50 mi/80 km southwest of Sucre.

Lake Titicaca (Peruvian Coast)

Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake, is a world unto itself—a definite must-see. It's located 560 mi/900 km southeast of Lima, on the Peru/Bolivia border, at an altitude of 12,500 ft/3,812 m. One way to see Titicaca is on the 12-hour train ride from Cuzco to Puno through the Andes, a trip that reaches an elevation of more than 14,000 ft/4,265 m as you pass by farms, people's backyards, waterfalls and bleak but wondrous scenery—clear blue sky, deep blue water and dry, barren landscape.

This is an expensive tourist train and runs three or four times a week; the local train, which was notorious for thievery, no longer operates. Tourist buses also cover this route, stopping at major sights en route. They are faster and have English-speaking guides. Peruvians and tourists on a time limit take normal buses between Cusco and Puno, usually a six-hour trip.

Don't neglect the attractions on the Bolivian side of the lake. Stop overnight in Puno, an uninspiring town near the border that's one of the best places in Peru to buy Andean handicrafts—alpaca sweaters, rugs, ponchos and tapestries. (The town is also known for its colorful fiestas and folk dances.) Then continue by bus or car to Copacabana, just across the border, for Bolivian customs formalities and to tour the cathedral or take a day trip to the Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna. With its small-village atmosphere and charm, this town is a nice overnight stay from which you can see more of the lake.

From Puno, tours or public transport are available to Taquile Island (small Inca ruins and very nice woven goods), Sillustani on Lake Umayo (to see chullpas, the funerary towers of the ancient Colla people) and the Floating Islands (actually enormous floating reed mats that support the Uros people's villages of reed huts—you can buy reed souvenirs there).

Buenos Aires

Salta

San Pedro de Atacama

Uyuni

Sucre

The country's constitutional capital, Sucre is located in a scenic valley at an elevation of 8,900 ft/2,700 m. It is home to the Supreme Court of Bolivia and three universities.

Sucre is one of the most relaxing and pleasant cities in Bolivia—the architecture has a European flavor, and the region has a delightful climate. It offers several interesting sights, among them the Cathedral and Chapel of Guadalupe, the Casa de la Libertad (colonial artifacts related to Bolivian independence), university museums and Immaculada Convent (shop there for handicrafts). In fact, the entire city is eye candy: By law, all of the houses and structures in the central area must be painted solid white, and the contrast of colorfully clad native peoples against a pure white backdrop is a sight to be seen. Also see the ruins of Calle-Calle in the Zudanez neighborhood.

But the real highlight is a day trip to nearby Tarabuco for the colorful Sunday carnival. Amerindians from throughout the area go to town to dance and have a good time. The clothing and singing are fabulous. Sucre is 260 mi/420 km southeast of La Paz.

La Paz, Bolivia

Puno

Machu Picchu

Ollantaytambo

History buffs will get a real kick out of Ollantaytambo, a pretty town about 26 mi/42 km northwest of Cusco. Before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors, Ollantaytambo served as the royal estate and ceremonial center of the Inca ruler Pachacuti, who had previously conquered this region.

The town itself still serves as a living example of Inca urban planning, while the surrounding Inca terraces and Temple Hill provide more fine examples of Inca architecture. Ollantaytambo played an important role during the Spanish Conquest. It was here that Manco Inca Yupanqui successfully defended the Inca position against a Spanish expedition following the fall of Cusco, but later retreated to the greater security of Vilcabamba.

Visitors can easily spend a couple of days exploring the nearby archaeological sites and strolling around the town. The higher sites offer spectacular views of the mountains and valleys, while the streets of Ollantaytambo are home to pre-Columbian and colonial architecture, traditional markets and plenty of Andean character.

Cuzco

Colca Canyon

Arequipa

Sparkling in the sun, Arequipa is called the White City because of the sillar, a white volcanic stone that makes up its buildings, modern ones as well as Spanish colonial. Peru's second-largest city sits surrounded by towering mountains—including the 19,000-ft/5,800-m volcano El Misti.

The city itself is the home of the monastery of La Recoleta (with a museum and library) and several interesting churches, but its highlight is the Santa Catalina Convent. Built in the late 16th century (but closed to the public until 1970), it was a self-contained community, a place where nuns could worship and live without leaving the convent. Walk through the well-preserved structure, soak up the peaceful atmosphere and discover the tiny, secluded plazas and lovely courtyards within.

From Arequipa, take a guided tour of Colca Canyon, one of the deepest canyons in the world (10,500 ft/3,191 m deep). (Day trips are possible, but they require many hours in a bus and are not recommended; two- or three-day trips are preferable.) Several local agencies arrange two-day trips with pleasant overnights in rural hotels. A journey to the canyon offers a view of extensive pre-Incan and Incan agricultural terracing, some of which is still farmed today, as well as a chance to see Andean condors at Cruz del Condor, a lookout point.

Adventurous travelers can follow in the footsteps of the chasqui, the Incan foot messengers, and trek the canyon. The Cotahuasi Canyon is more remote than the Colca, but it is the deepest in the world, with stretches as low as 10,857 ft/3,300 m. It is located 125 mi/200 km northwest of Arequipa. Or visit the Reserva Nacional de Salinas y Aguada Blanca, a nature reserve with stunning lakes and salt flats, located high in the surrounding mountains. The area is about 465 mi/750 km southeast of Lima by air. By road, the distances are closer to 625 mi/1,000 km.

Nazca

Lima